Take a few steps inland, though, and a less tourism-centred side of Larnaka unfolds. The modern downtown district has stayed determinedly low-rise and has a proper community feel and working-town atmosphere, while the old Turkish quarter of Skala is a slice of days-gone-by Cyprus, with plenty of quaintly dilapidated shutter-windowed and whitewashed houses. Between the two you’ll find the Byzantine church of Agios Lazaros and Larnaka’s little fort, both of which – in their own ways – have kept an eye on the town for centuries.
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Still known to many as Limassol, Lemesos is one of Cyprus’ most underrated cities.

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